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Irish lore: Corned beef and cabbage made popular by immigrants

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By Mike Pound Globe Columnist

JOPLIN, Mo. — Erv Langan has prepared and sampled corned beef and cabbage recipes all over the world with the exception of one place: Ireland.
“They really don’t eat corned beef and cabbage in Ireland. It’s more of an American invention,” Langan said.
A quick spin through the Internet validates Langan’s contention. It seems corned beef and cabbage was a dish popular with Irish immigrants who made their way to this country in the 1800s. According to various reports, the dish caught on with the immigrants because corned beef was inexpensive. It was through that Irish immigrant connection that corned beef and cabbage became the ubiquitous St. Patrick’s Day dish in this country.

Langan, who along with his wife, LeeAnn, owns and operates the Keltoi Winery north of Joplin, grew up eating corned beef and cabbage. He and is wife count it as a family staple. They serve it not only on St. Patrick’s Day, but year round.

“We probably have it once a month,” Langan said.

Langan, who is a retired Army officer,  served his corned beef and cabbage to fellow soldiers on St. Patrick’s Day, or, if inclined, he would sample the dish at the Officer’s Club at whatever post he was stationed.

“We would get together and have one of those hoot-and-holler parties,” Langan said of those gatherings.

His take on corned beef and cabbage is pretty basic. Some corned beef, some cabbage, some carrots and some time. Really good corned beef and cabbage needs to cook a while. Long enough, at least, so the meat is tender enough to cut with a fork, and the corned beef in Langan’s corned beef and cabbage certainly fits that bill.
“I usually put the meat on around 9:30 at night and then I’ll add the cabbage and whatever else around 11 and then I let in cook in the Crock-Pot overnight,” he said.
While many recipes for corned beef and cabbage call for the meat to be cooked whole, Langan prefers to cut the corned beef before cooking rather than after. He also will sometimes add potatoes and, for additional liquid, either red wine or beer.
“Whatever I’m drinking when I’m cooking,” Erv said.
LeeAnn Langan also makes corned beef and cabbage, but her take on the dish varies from her husband’s. She’s not a fan of adding wine to her corned beef and cabbage and “I don’t let mine cook has long (as Erv’s),” she said.
Like true Americans of definite Irish heritage, the Langan’s have plans to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in a big way. Beginning at noon Thursday, the Langan’s will serve up corned beef and cabbage, Irish soda bread and potato soup for a nominal fee. Beer and wine will also be available. They will serve the meal until “we run out.” Then the couple will offer up hot dogs and chips. In the evening, Mark Butler, Steve Smith and Ed Minton will be on hand to play traditional Irish music.
The Keltoi Winery is located at 17705 County Road 260. From Joplin, take Highway 171 north. When you reach the Mo-Kan Dragway, go east on M Highway for five miles. At County Road 260 go north .7 of a mile and the winery will be on your left.
Erv’s corned beef and cabbage

1 corned beef brisket (3 to 4 pounds)

1 large head of cabbage

4 to 5 carrots

Beer or wine to flavor

Potatoes (6 to 8 medium), washed, quartered with skins on (optional)

1/4 of a red onion, chopped (optional)

Late the night before, cut the corned beef into chunks and place in a large Crock-Pot. Cook for approximately 1 1/2 hours on high. Cut carrots into bite-sized pieces. Slice head of cabbage. Place as much carrots and cabbage into Crock-Pot as will fit. They will not all fit initially. Turn cooker down to low. As the cabbage cooks down, add more carrots and cabbage until all have been placed in the Crock-Pot. Two or three “tads” of pre-celebration drink are added at this time. (Cook can determine amount of a “tad”). Guinness beer is always a good choice. Biddy Early blush wine will give a unique flavor. Cook on low through the night.

The next morning, turn off Crock-Pot.  About 1 1/2 hours before lunch, turn it back on high. Serve warm; probably with Irish soda bread and drink of choice.


LeeAnn’s Potato Soup

6 cups diced potatoes

1/2 cup chopped onions

2 stalks chopped celery w/leaves

1 carrot, chopped

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon celery salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

8 slices bacon, crumbled

Parsley flakes (optional)

White sauce:

6 tablespoons bacon drippings (or melted butter)

2 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

Fry bacon until crisp. Remove bacon and drain grease/drippings into bowl, reserve.  Wash and prepare vegetables. Place vegetables in large Dutch oven and just cover with water. Cook over medium heat, covered, until vegetables are tender. Prepare white sauce with reserved drippings mixing well. Slowly add to vegetables (do not drain) stirring to mix. Heat through and add bacon pieces. Add 1 tablespoon of parsley flakes if desired.



LeeAnn’s Irish soda bread

4  cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

1 1/2 to 2 cups buttermilk

Combine dry ingredients and mix well. Add enough buttermilk to make a soft dough. Knead on a lightly floured board for 2 or 3  minutes until smooth and velvety. Form into a round loaf. Bake on a cookie sheet or baking stone at 375 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool. Slice thinly.
 
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